How To Prepare For The Image Of A Lifetime:
A Step By Step Approach

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Taking the time to prepare for an image long before pressing the shutter will lead to more consistent results.

When it comes to photographing wildlife, being prepared when a shot presents itself is something any photographer beginner or professional can do to ensure greater success in the field. Some misconceptions I hear regarding my photography is I must be incredibly patient or have waited a ridiculous amount of time to capture many of my images. While I consider myself a patient person in many aspects of my life, this does not hold true when it comes to photography.

Most of my photography takes place during morning walks while on a work break and therefore I must keep moving. As a result, I rarely stay in one location very long unless I observe a rare species, one I have yet to photograph or see the potential for an exceptional shot. Even in these cases, I don’t hold still long. In order to have success with this run-and-gun approach being prepared is crucial.

Regardless of whether I am planning on heading out with my camera during a morning walk or spending an entire day at one of my favourite birding locations, following a series of steps ensures I am prepared for any shot when the situation arises. If you find yourself missing opportunities when in the field, adhere to this simple checklist for improved success. 

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I have yet to miss an image due to a dead battery. Making sure my battery is fully charged the night before assures enough power for a full day of shooting.
FULLY CHARGE YOUR CAMERA’S BATTERY

A fully charged battery ensures your camera has enough power to capture images throughout the day. I like to charge my battery the night before heading out. By employing this practice I have never had a battery die resulting in missed opportunities even while shooting thousands of images in extremely cold weather. In fact, I have such confidence in this I have never invested in a spare battery saving me money in the process.   

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During spring migration it’s not uncommon to take hundreds even thousands of images in a single day. A clear memory card will provide plenty of space to capture all of those beautiful migrants.
CLEAR ALL IMAGES FROM YOUR MEMORY CARD

Transferring images from my camera to laptop is something I typically do upon returning home from a day’s shoot. However, as part of my preparation, I double check the card in my camera has been cleared. Packing a second memory card is also a good idea as this will allow more images to be captured and provides insurance in the unfortunate event of a card error. Memory cards have come down significantly in price in recent years so there is little excuse not to own at least one spare. 

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A clean lens will make certain no dark spots from dust or water droplets appear in the images.
CLEAN YOUR CAMERA AND LENSES

Taking the time to clean the camera’s sensor and any lenses you plan on shooting with will leave you confident no dust spots show up on your images. While these spots can sometimes be later removed with various photo editing software, fewer edits made preserves the integrity of a photo. Cleaning your gear takes very little time and should be done before every shoot. Wiping down the exterior of the camera to remove any fingerprints or dust especially from the LCD screen will make reviewing your histogram much easier after capturing an image. A clean viewfinder provides an immaculate view of your subject and camera settings.

One item that often gets overlooked when it comes to cleaning gear is the lens caps. Think of how many times you have dropped your lens caps only to briefly blow on it or wipe it on your pants expecting it to be clean. When the cap is replaced back on the lens dirt and debris is easily transferred leaving potentially image compromising blemishes on the front element. I like to use a separate cleaning cloth for my lens caps as they are often my dirtiest piece of equipment, and I do not want to risk scratching my camera body or lenses with sand and gravel transferred from my lens cap.

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In nature photography, chances to capture a shot are often only available for a few seconds. Taking the time to power up a camera when a shot presents itself often leads to missed opportunities.
TURN YOUR CAMERA ON AND LEAVE IT ON

Upon arriving at your destination and removing the camera from its bag, turn the power switch to the on position and leave it there. If you are concerned about draining the battery, no need to worry as most cameras have an auto power off feature. To save power the camera will automatically power off after about a minute of not operating. To turn the camera back on, simply press the shutter halfway.

If you are not already taking advantage of this feature it can be enabled from within the camera’s menu. Taking the time to turn the camera on via the power button or forgetting entirely before every shot is a missed image waiting to happen. 

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You never know when an opportunity is going to present itself so being prepared is of utmost importance. Having my lens cap off prior to this Red-tailed Hawk flying straight towards me saved valuable seconds which allowed me to capture the image.
 REMOVE YOUR LENS CAP AND LEAVE IT OFF

Many photographers leave their lens caps on while hiking around out of fear of scratching their front element. If this is you, try to avoid this practice as you are setting yourself up to miss potential shots. If you have to stop and remove your lens cap when a shot presents itself, most of the time the shot will be gone before you get the cap off.

If you are concerned about protecting your front element and your lens is equipped with a hood, put it on and leave it on even on cloudy days as this will shield the lens from tree limbs and other potential scratching hazards. Clear protective lens filters available in a variety of sizes to fit your specific lens can be purchased and are cheap insurance. These filters simply thread onto the front element of a lens protecting it from scratches. 

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Knowing the correct exposure for the sky before this Great Egret flew overhead enabled me to quickly adjust my settings resulting in this photo.
REVIEW YOUR CAMERA SETTINGS AND TAKE A FEW SHOTS TO CHECK YOUR EXPOSURE

Always check your camera settings to make sure they are optimized for the light conditions and your subject. Remember when photographing birds and wildlife you need a fast shutter speed. Adjust your ISO and aperture accordingly and ensure your camera is set to high speed continuous to take advantage of your maximum frames per second.

Once you have your basic settings dialed in, take a few test shots and check your histogram to ensure proper exposure and adjust if necessary. This works even if there is no subject present as in most cases the exposure won’t change even with a bird or some other form of wildlife in the frame. Remember to take a few shots of the sky as well so you will know the proper exposure and can quickly adjust for a potential bird in flight.  

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Whenever possible ensure the sun is at your back before taking the shot.
 PLAN YOUR ROUTE

When photographing anything outdoors you always want to keep the sun at your back whenever possible. This will ensure your subject is properly lit. When it comes to photographing wildlife a little forethought can help achieve this. When heading out for a morning hike I always try to walk from east to west. Conversely, if heading out in the afternoon or evening, I plan my walk so that I am heading from west to east. In most situations, this helps ensure my subject is well lit and avoids backlit images and silhouettes.  

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Even common birds like the American Robin are wary of loud sounds. Be sure to move slowly and quietly keeping noise to a minimum.
BE QUIET

Wildlife can startle very easily resulting in missed shots. I like to wear quiet clothing avoiding nylon and other loud materials alerting my presence to potential subjects. Moving slowly and quietly helps me get close enough to capture detailed images. Watch where you step as the sound of a breaking stick or leaves rustling on the ground can easily spook wary wildlife.

When sneaking up on wildlife avoid eye contact and don’t approach in a straight line. Using a zig-zag pattern is far more effective and less likely to cause the subject to flee. Be respectful and don’t approach too closely especially when it comes to nesting birds or wildlife with young. Remember the old saying “If my behaviour changes their behaviour than I’m too close.”   

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Choosing a single focus point and placing it on the subject’s eye results in sharp images.
FOCUS ON YOUR SUBJECT’S EYE

This is pretty straightforward. When the eye is sharp the image is sharp. 

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After obtaining focus, shoot at least three frames consecutively. By employing this practice, you will likely find that the second image is always the sharpest.
SHOOT AT LEAST THREE FRAMES CONSECUTIVELY

Once focus is achieved on the subject’s eye and you are ready to start shooting, hold the shutter down and fire off at least three frames in a row. It has been my experience that by doing this the second image in a sequence of three is always the sharpest. When the subject is at a distance I find that most photographers achieve focus but then end up aiming low while pressing the shutter. Focus is once again acquired for the second shot and then lost high while overcompensating on the third shot, thus at least frames will yield better results than shooting individual images.

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The histogram is every photographer’s best friend when it comes to achieving proper exposure. Understanding how to read one and using it regularly results in more keeper images. 
CHECK YOUR HISTOGRAM   

After shooting a series of frames, be sure to check your histogram to ensure proper exposure. Adjust as necessary and continue shooting. Light conditions are always changing, which is why I like to continually take test shots of the various scenes as I move along on my hike. This gives me a good base exposure that can quickly be tweaked if necessary once a subject is located.

Next to missed focus, improper exposure is the biggest reason images end up in the recycle bin. Sure you can try adjusting the exposure in Photoshop or other editing software, but you will quickly see the image quality deteriorate once you start moving those exposure sliders. For optimal final images always try to get the exposure correct in camera. 

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Taking the time to complete all of these steps meant I was ready for the shot at the exact moment this Green Heron struck capturing a Leopard Frog.

You never know when the shot of a lifetime will present itself, so it’s best to be prepared if and when one does. After understanding camera settings and how to apply them to each situation, being prepared is the biggest thing any photographer can do to capture more consistent images. As you can see there are several steps involved to being prepared, but by taking a little extra time, often before heading out into the field, you will set yourself up for improved success and who knows maybe even the image of a lifetime. 

Good birding,
Paul 

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A Proven Technique For Easily Locating The Subject In Your Camera’s Viewfinder

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Locating a fast flying bird in your camera’s viewfinder can be quite challenging. Fortunately there is a simple technique which makes achieving this incredibly easy.

Wildlife photography can be quite challenging. Unlike landscape or portrait photography where the subject is large and stationary, nature photographers must deal with much smaller subjects, and ones that are almost constantly moving. Whether its a bird of prey in flight, a small songbird flitting among the branches, or a butterfly moving from flower to flower, one of the hardest elements of wildlife photography can be locating the subject in your camera’s viewfinder.    

Fortunately, there is a simple trick photographers can use to make locating their subject much easier. By using your camera’s hot shoe as a sight, locating your subject will become much faster. If you are unfamiliar with what a hot shoe is, it is the mount on top of your camera where an external flash or other accessories attach. If your camera is not equipped with a hot shoe, you can simply use the top of the camera body itself as a sight.

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This well camouflaged America Robin was quickly found in my viewfinder by following this simple technique.

Once you have determined your subject, instead of looking through your viewfinder trying to locate it, simply look above the viewfinder through your hot shoe moving the camera until the subject is located. When your subject appears, slowly lower your eye into the viewfinder and you will see your subject in the viewfinder. Next, acquire focus and take the shot..The key to this technique is moving only your head slightly, enough to see through the viewfinder without moving your arms and subsequently the camera, losing sight of your subject.

This technique can be practiced with larger, stationary objects until perfected. Once you are comfortable with moving just your head slightly and not your arms and camera, you can move on to smaller moving subjects. As I mentioned above, this technique is incredibly helpful for photographing birds in flight as locating a bird against a large expansive background through your viewfinder can be incredibly difficult. It is equally effective for quickly locating a bird surrounded by branches or other objects. In fact, this technique can be used in any in any situation regardless of the subject. 

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Using my hot shoe as a sight, I was able to easily track this Black Swallowtail Butterfly as it moved from flower to flower.

If locating the subject in your camera’s viewfinder is something you struggle with, give this technique a try. I think you will find that with a little practice this approach will alleviate a lot of frustration and ultimately lead to more keeper images.    

Good birding,
Paul

Long Lenses Are Not Always Required For Nature Photography

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This Black-throated Green Warbler was photographed at a focal length of 190mm. This uncropped image demonstrates that a long lens is not always required for nature photography.

When it comes to nature photography, many of today’s top professionals are wielding telephoto lenses in the 500mm – 600mm range. Add on a teleconverter and focal lengths of 700mm – 1200mm are achieved. Sure this gives the photographer plenty of reach, but some of these combinations also come with a five figure price tag. While many of us, myself included, may dream of a lens of this magnitude, results are achievable with much more affordable gear.

Fortunately, these long focal lengths are not always required when photographing wildlife. Most of today’s DSLRs come with either a 250mm or 300mm telephoto zoom at the time of purchase, and these kit lenses are more than adequate for nature photography in many situations. When shooting with a shorter lens, getting close to your subject is paramount. One simple technique I use to get closer to my subject is to study their movements. After watching their behaviour and direction of travel, I try to put myself in a position where I believe the subject will be next. This technique is extremely productive especially when birds are feeding in the wild, and yields far better results than trying to directly approach them. Many wild animals are routinely pursued by predators and will quickly flee if they feel they are being stalked. By not pursuing your subject, and waiting for it to come to you, you won’t be perceived as a threat and closer views will be possible. Be sure to avoid sudden movements as this too will startle wildlife, causing them to run or fly from the area.

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This Black-capped Chickadee was photographed at 250mm using a Canon 55-250mm kit lens.

If you are shooting with a lens in the 250mm – 300mm range, photographing nature at your local park or own backyard can be your best options. Many of these animals are accustomed to human activity and are easily photographed with a shorter lens. Remember to avoid pursuing your subject as well as sudden movements as this will scare them off. Over the years I have taken many images with these shorter focal length lenses that I am more than happy with.

Next time you are out, keep these tips in mind. I think you will agree that regardless of what focal length your lens is, you will find yourself getting closer to nature.

Good birding,
Paul