4 Camera Settings All Bird Photographers Should Be Using

Whether you are a professional photographer or simply a hobbyist, the goal of everyone who photographs birds is the same, sharper images. What many beginners often fail to realize is that sharp images have more to do with knowing how to properly use a camera and getting the most out of it than the price tag on it. Camera settings are what make or break a photo, and in this post I am going to share with you four settings you may not be using that will help improve your final images. 

1. Use Aperture Priority Mode Or Manual Mode To Set Your Exposure

Every great image starts with proper exposure. If your exposure is off these photos are destined for the recycle bin. Getting the correct exposure in-camera is key as this results in the best image possible. If you have to adjust your exposure in Lightroom or other photo editing program after the fact your image quality is going to suffer. The more you adjust the more it suffers. For anyone still shooting in automatic mode, the sooner you move out of this mode the sooner your images will improve. Remember when shooting in automatic mode your camera is calculating your exposure for you based on the amount of available light. Light is only part of the equation when it comes to an image. What about your subject? Isn’t that after all the purpose of taking the photo to capture the subject? Since your camera cannot identify your subject or whether or not it is moving leaving elements of the exposure such as shutter speed up to the camera is a bad idea. In order to get sharp images, you have to set the parameters of your exposure based not only on the amount of available light but also your subject and the only way to do this is by taking control of your settings. 

If you are new to photography and a bit overwhelmed by exposure, I recommend starting with aperture priority mode. In this mode, you select the aperture and ISO and the camera will automatically select the correct corresponding shutter speed. By doing this you can choose a wide aperture and high ISO which results in a fast shutter speed thus freezing the action of a fast-moving bird. Whenever the light permits, I like my shutter speed to be at least 1/1000 to ensure sharp images. Many will ask why not use shutter priority set at 1/1000? There are several reasons I do not use shutter priority. First, in aperture priority mode I have control of depth of field which allows me to better isolate my subject from the background. Second, in low light, I would have to shoot at a very high ISO to achieve 1/1000 shutter speed and my image would be too noisy. For anyone shooting with a full-frame camera, this option may work for you but on my APS-C sensor, I would not be impressed with my final images. This is one of the few instances where I would delete a photo due to noise. In low light situations with aperture priority mode, the camera will choose a slower shutter speed but with good technique, I can still freeze the action. If the light is really poor and the bird is moving I may end up with a blurry image but this is a limitation of my gear and the reality of photography some times. The only way to overcome this would be to invest in a full-frame camera capable of shooting at a much higher ISO.    

The other option is to shoot in manual mode. In this mode, the photographer chooses all aspects of the exposure shutter speed, ISO, and aperture. Manual mode is a bit trickier as there is one more element to factor in but once comfortable you have full control and can really fine-tune your exposure with even the slightest change in light. Regardless of which of these two modes you choose, be sure to check your exposure on your histogram and adjust your settings accordingly to get the proper exposure. 

2. Carefully Select Your ISO  

Regardless of whether you choose aperture priority or manual mode selecting the proper ISO is imperative. Too high and ISO and you end up with noisy images, too low an ISO and you won’t achieve a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. One misconception many photographers have is that their camera is not capable of sharp, noise-free images at 800 ISO or higher. In my experience, any DSLR on the market today is quite capable of noise-free images at 800 ISO and even slightly higher if you get the exposure right. The problem is when you get the exposure wrong in-camera and start making adjustments in Lightroom, especially when you try to brighten an underexposed image. This accentuates the noise rendering the photo unusable. If the proper exposure is achieved in-camera very little noise is seen when opened in Lightroom and can easily be removed with the noise reduction slider.

Whenever I am out in the field, I always start at ISO 800 as this typically results in a shutter speed of 1/1000 with a wide-open aperture even on cloudy days. If it is really cloudy, early morning, or other low light conditions I will bump my ISO up to 1250 or even 1600 and have no issues with noise provided I get the exposure correct. When I botch my exposure these images quickly get deleted upon returning home. I don’t even bother trying to adjust the exposure in Lightroom as I know these images will appear too noisy. When this occurs, and I fully admit it does, I think of the old saying you can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. This is not the fault of the camera, the blame is solely on me for choosing the wrong settings or not being able to adjust them fast enough for the changing conditions. On sunny days I set my ISO lower but usually cannot go below 400 and still achieve a shutter speed of 1/1000. The bottom line is don’t be afraid to up your ISO. Sharp images with a bit of noise are better than a blurry image with no noise. When exposed properly you will miss more shots due to motion blur, a result of a shutter speed that was too slow, than you will because an image is too noisy. 

3. Choose High-Speed Continuous Shooting 

Cameras these days are capable of some pretty impressive burst rates now over 10 frames per second on newer models. However, if your camera is set to one-shot or single shooting you are not taking advantage of this feature. The only way to achieve a flight sequence of a bird of prey or waterfowl is to obtain focus and hold down the shutter, thus utilizing your maximum frames per second. This setting also comes in handy with slower-moving subjects like a shorebird running down the beach or a flitting songbird.

4. Use AI Servo (Canon Shooters) or AF-C (Nikon Shooters) Auto Focus 

Obtaining focus on a moving bird is certainly challenging but fortunately, this setting will help. When using AI Servo, or AF-C for you Nikon shooters, your camera will continuously focus on a moving subject as long as your shutter button is held halfway down. This allows you to track a bird in flight or a small songbird as its hops from branch to branch while maintaining focus. When you see the shot you want, hold the shutter button down and take advantage of the high-speed continuous shooting I mentioned earlier.   

Conclusion 

Choosing the right camera settings can seem overwhelming and a bit confusing especially if you are new to photography. Anyone can achieve sharper images regardless of how much your equipment cost; however, this requires you to step outside your comfort zone and adjust a few of your camera settings. If you are not certain how to make these adjustments consult your camera’s manual. With the press of a few buttons, these changes can be easily made.

Bird photography is supposed to be fun, not frustrating. Making sure you are using the best possible settings is the first step in capturing stunning images. If you haven’t already, give these camera settings a try and I’m sure you will see an improvement in your final images. 

Good birding,
Paul 

*Curious about what camera, lenses, and other equipment I use for nature photography? Be sure to check out my gear page for more details.*