Northern Cardinals are among the birds beginning to gather leaves and other nest materials. Leaving some behind when doing your yard cleanup will benefit your feathered friends.
Now that spring is upon us and warmer temperatures have finally arrived, many people are heading outdoors to begin their spring yard cleanup. Before you go cutting back and bagging everything that is not green, take a minute to think about the birds.
Spring is when birds begin nesting in our area, and many birds can now be observed rummaging through gardens looking for nest materials. If you are planning on doing some yard cleanup in the near future, consider leaving some materials for the birds. Dry leaves, grass, twigs, and flower stocks are all used by many songbirds to construct a nest. If you are wanting to clear out your garden to expose freshly emerging tulips and daffodils, these materials can be placed in a different area of your yard, where the birds can access them.
Dead tree branches and stumps around your property will attract woodpeckers like this Northern Flicker and other cavity-nesting birds.
If you have dead branches on your property, and it is safe to do so, leave these as well. Dead branches serve two purposes: they attract insects, which as a result will attract woodpeckers and other birds; they also provide nest sites for a variety of cavity-nesting birds.
Black-capped Chickadee excavating a nest cavity in a dead willow tree.
Many people only feed the birds during the winter months, taking their feeders down once spring arrives. Spring is an equally important time of year to feed the birds as there is not always an abundance of natural foods around. Most of the seeds and berries from last season have long since been consumed, while this year’s crop is months away. Birds returning from their wintering grounds have traveled thousands of kilometers in some cases, and need to replace spent energy.
Leaving your feeder up throughout the migration period will provide these birds with much-needed nourishment. I personally leave my feeders out year-round, because after the migration period, adult birds begin bringing their young to the feeders.
Placing fruit around your yard is a great way to assist Robins and other non-seed eating birds while natural foods are scarce.
Since several birds do not regularly accept seed offerings, fruit can be substituted. Robins and Cedar Waxwings can both benefit, especially on cooler days when insects are hard to come by, from fruit placed around your yard. Baltimore Orioles, when they return in a few weeks, will readily accept oranges cut in half or sliced. Make sure the fruit is fresh and has not gone moldy or spoiled.
Spring is a perfect time to make sure your feeders are clean. Washing your feeders regularly with warm water and an eco-friendly dish detergent will help ensure your backyard birds stay healthy by preventing disease. Use an old toothbrush to remove any feces, moldy, or stuck on seed. Rinse your feeder thoroughly and ensure it is completely dry before refilling.
Leaves, twigs, and various yard materials are gathered by Northern Cardinals and other birds to build nests.
Fresh water is equally important to birds. If you put your birdbath away last fall, it is time to get it out and fill it up. Clean water is essential, so be sure to change the water regularly. If you have a water feature or fountain in your yard, make sure the water is clean and the pump is running. Resident and migrating birds with both be looking to bathe and drink from the running water. In fact, water is a better attractor of birds than food is. If you don’t already have one, add a birdbath or other water source to your yard if you are wishing to attract more birds.
Even with a seemingly slow start to spring birds, including the Red-winged Blackbird, are arriving on schedule.
Despite a winter that seemed like it would never end, and a relatively slow start to spring, bird migration is on schedule. Many of the birds we expect to see by this time have returned. Blackbirds, American Robins, several sparrow species, and swallows have all been observed in our area. This past week I observed my first of year Eastern Phoebe and Hermit Thrush, both right on schedule. Over the next couple of weeks, we will see another big push of songbirds return to our area. Baltimore Orioles, Indigo Buntings, Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, and of course, the warblers will all be arriving. Will your yard be ready to welcome these birds with open arms?
Warmer temperatures this past week had several first of year species present across the city, including this Eastern Chipmunk.
The abundance of waterfowl present on the Thames River continues to be what area birders are drawn to and talking about. Thanks to this week’s warmer temperatures, most of the previously ice covered sections of river are now flowing. While this has resulted in a decrease in the concentration of ducks, the variety of species remains impressive. This week I added to my growing list of waterfowl observed this year on the Thames River with: a pair of Wood Ducks, a pair of American Wigeon, a lone Ring-necked Duck, and several American Coots. Although they are more spread out, all of the diving ducks mentioned in previous posts are still present.
The variety of dabbling ducks increased on the Thames River this past week. Among the dabblers present are Northern Pintails.
A complete list of waterfowl I observed this past week is as follows:
American Black Duck
American Coot
American Wigeon
Female Common Goldeneye.
Bufflehead
Canada Goose
Canvasback
Common Goldeneye
Common Merganser
Greater Scaup
Harlequin Duck
Hooded Merganser
Lesser Scaup
Long-tailed Duck
Northern Pintail
Mallard
Red-breasted Merganser
Redhead
Ring-necked Duck
White-winged Scoter
Wood Duck
Male Harlequin Duck in flight.
For birders along the Thames River, the Harlequin Duck continues to be the big attraction. Everyday as I walk the river, fellow birders can be heard asking each other if they have seen the duck. My last sighting of the Harlequin Duck was Thursday afternoon, upstream of the foot bridge to Thames Valley Golf Course. This bird slowly made his way upriver all week from where it spent so much time previously, downstream from the old pump house. Despite walking the entire stretch of river from the outflow at Greenway Park to the Sanatorium Road bridge on Friday, I was unsuccessful at locating the Harlequin Duck. The last report to eBird, at the time of writing this, had him present in front of the London Canoe Club late Thursday.
American Coots are among the variety of waterfowl present on the Thames River.
With warm temperatures and south winds, I expected to see more migrants show up this past week. Although I did read reported sightings in our area, I was surprised not to personally observe any Red-winged Blackbirds or Common Grackles. We should see increased numbers of blackbirds in the coming weeks. While scanning the Thames River for waterfowl at the old pump house, I heard the distinct call of a Killdeer. Looking out over the water I observed the bird fly across and set down on the recently thawed sand bar on the far bank. Watching through binoculars, I could see the Killdeer foraging in the wet sand. I also observed my first Eastern Chipmunks of the year this past week, one in my backyard and two in Springbank Park.
Early spring is an excellent time to get out birding. With so many resident species, plus the overlapping of incoming and outgoing migrants, the variety of birds around at this time of year can be quite impressive. Also, the increased temperatures we are experiencing have made birding conditions more comfortable. Next week is March Break, a great time to get outdoors with kids and introduce them to nature. For those of you not heading south, get out and enjoy the remaining overwintering birds that can be found across the city, and those returning from their wintering grounds.
This Black-capped Chickadee was photographed using a Canon EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens, my go to lens for bird photography. Is a lens of this cost necessary to achieve acceptable results?
I recently published a blog post titled Photographing Birds: Tips and Tricks, where I shared information about getting the most out of your camera and lens by finding its “sweet spot” and shooting within its limitations. The images I used in that post were all shot with my Canon EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens, a lens that retails in Canada for $1499.00. Like almost everyone else, I started out with a much less expensive kit lens. Realizing that many people are shooting with kit lenses I wanted to demonstrate that acceptable images are achievable with equipment that costs much less. For this post, I decided to dig out my old kit lens, a Canon EFS55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II. I have not shot with this lens since December of 2012, but wanted to illustrate the kind of results that can be achieved with a lens that retails for $229.00, and is included with many Canon DSLRs at the time of purchase.
Taking the time to understand your camera’s functions and perfecting your skill is more advantageous than spending thousands of dollars on a new lens. This Black-capped Chickadee was photographed using a Canon EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II Kit lens.
Although equipment plays an important role in photography, technique and knowing how to use that equipment are even more important. Image quality has a lot more to do with the person behind the camera and lens than many people may realize. The main things you can do to improve your image quality are: take the time to learn and fully understand your camera functions, be able to quickly adjust your settings to changing conditions, and utilize techniques to steady your lens. Even if your budget allows for a $10,000 lens (for example, a 500mm f4), don’t expect to achieve instant results. The fact of the matter is, if you don’t hold the lens steady or properly expose your images, expensive equipment isn’t going to do you much good.
The added reach and increased auto focus speed are what I deem the two biggest advantages in a lens upgrade. This Black-capped Chickadee was photographed using the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens. Retail price $1499.00Getting close to your subject will make up for lost reach. This Photo was taken using the Canon EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II lens. Retail price $299.00
So if I can achieve results I am happy with using my kit lens, what do I get from a lens that costs five times as much? First of all, added reach. The extra 150mm comes in very handy because we all know how hard it is to get close to birds and wildlife without scaring them off. The build quality, including optics are better. Yes, better optics will give better results, but again, only if used properly. Most kit lenses are constructed mainly of plastic, where the Canon L series are mostly metal. For me this is not a huge issue as I am pretty careful with my equipment. For someone who travels a lot, the added durability of metal will help protect against light bumps. Drop either lens and I’m sure the fact that the kit lens is plastic will be the least of my worries. The Canon 100-400 is also partially weather sealed, providing increased protection against dust and moisture. This added build quality translates to added weight. My Canon 100-400mm weighs just over three pounds. A lens hood and case were also included with the Canon 100-400mm. The thing I like most about my Canon 100-400mm is the auto focus. Canon’s USM (ultrasonic motor) is incredibly fast and accurate. This to me, is worth every penny. Some bird species move incredibly fast and almost constantly, making focusing on them extremely difficult. Photographing birds in flight is also much easier with a lens that features a USM.
Black-capped Chickadee. Canon EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II.
Achieving results with a kit lens is possible if you keep a few things in mind. As is the case with any lens in wildlife photography, get as close as possible. For some bird species, especially waterfowl, this can be difficult. Many birds in your backyard or at the local park are accustomed to human activity and can be approached closely. For other species this requires increased patience or hiding in a certain spot waiting for the bird to come into view. I find auto focus speed to be the biggest set back of a kit lens. In an area where there are leaves, branches and other obstructions, locking onto the target can sometimes take the lens longer then the subject is willing to wait. If this is the case, switch over to manual focus. By rotating the focus ring manually you will be able to track and lock onto flitting birds much faster. Be sure to hold your camera and lens as steady as possible. Even with image stabilization and fast shutter speeds, camera shake will quickly ruin an otherwise acceptable shot. If camera shake is a problem, than the use of a monopod will be beneficial.
I have been photographing birds and wildlife for three years now, and have seen improvements to my images in that time. I have read and watched countless tutorials, and spent hours practicing what I have learned. There has been much trial and error along the way, and there is always room for improvement. My photographs are by no means perfect, but I am happy with the results that I achieve. My first camera and lens combination was a Canon T3i with the EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II that suited me quite well. After understanding the functions of the camera and honing my skills and technique, I realized an equipment upgrade could improve my photography. My current set up, the Canon 7D and EF100-400mm f/4.6-5.6L IS USM gives me more reach, faster auto focus and more frames per second, three things that help with bird photography. When I sit back and scrutinize my images, I look to see what I could have done to improve the image quality. Perhaps I should have selected a faster shutter speed or different aperture. Maybe instead of focusing on the bird’s eye, I focused on the branch beside it. Camera shake is often to blame for my blurry images, even with the use of image stabilization. In all of these cases human error was to blame for the missed shot, not my equipment.
Refining your technique will reward you with better results than investing in an expensive lens. Canon EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II
If you are a serious hobbyist like me, than upgrading your kit lens can help you achieve better results. Expensive lenses help reduce the limitations put on photographers by their equipment, but is not however a substitute for skill and technique. If you are currently shooting with a kit lens, practice achieving the best possible results with your set up. Work on being able to adjust ISO, shutter speed, and aperture quickly while shooting. Become familiar with your camera’s various metering modes, and the use of exposure compensation. These are elements of photography that are incredibly helpful in many shooting situations. When you consistently get results you are happy with, yet find range and focus speed are holding your photography back, then consider upgrading your lens. If you are not getting the results you hoped for from your camera and lens set-up, consider signing up for a one on one workshop.
Camera settings are what make or break a picture. Knowing how to adjust on the fly will greatly increase the number of keepers you shoot. 1/320th second ISO 1250 f6.3 at 400mm.
I am receiving a lot of questions lately from followers asking about my camera gear, camera settings, and any pointers I can offer to help them with their bird photography. This post is designed to help answer some of these questions and hopefully give you something to take away to help improve your shots.
Currently, I am using the Canon 7D with the Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens. I do like the versatility of the zoom, but have to admit the majority of my shots are taken at 400mm. I love the 8 frames per second on the 7D, especially for photographing birds in flight, and the autofocus on the 100-400mm is accurate and fast. New models of both of these pieces of equipment were introduced this year, so if you are looking to upgrade, prices have been drastically reduced on these noncurrent items.
I like to incorporate my bird photography with hiking, so for this reason, I do not use a tripod and shoot everything handheld. I am not one to stay in the same spot long, so for me setting up and taking down a tripod is too much of a hassle. I do use a tripod for landscape photography.
Under ideal conditions, I like to shoot with low ISO and a high shutter speed. The low ISO results in a less noisy image and the high shutter speed helps freeze the action if the bird moves. 1/1250th second ISO 640 f8 at 400mm.
My first piece of advice, if you haven’t already done so, is to stop shooting in any of the program modes. In these modes, the cameras adjust ISO, aperture, and shutter speed automatically. The camera does it’s best job to get these settings right, but when it comes to bird photography these program modes will really hold you back.
As far as what settings I use, this obviously varies depending on the conditions. I like to use the lowest ISO possible, but maintain a high enough shutter speed to freeze the action. Unfortunately, with birds this is where the difficulty comes in. In order to get a high enough shutter speed, you must increase the ISO, but if you increase the ISO too much you get noisy images. In order to improve the quality, you must first understand the limitations of your equipment.
Regardless of what camera and lens set up you own, it is going to perform best at certain settings. For example, a camera’s image quality drastically decreases once you reach a certain ISO. Similarly, lenses are much sharper when not shot at their widest apertures. It doesn’t matter if you own an entry-level DSLR and kit lens or a top of the line professional body and super-telephoto lens, each piece of equipment has what I call a sweet spot.
Photographing birds in flight requires a fast shutter speed. Sometimes a little blur on the wings is nice to capture the element of motion. 1/800th second ISO 400 f8 at 400mm.
Finding your camera’s sweet spot is quite easy, but requires the use of a tripod to eliminate any shake factor. Go outside and look for a subject to photograph. Make sure it is something stationary as you are going to take several shots of the same object. Switch your camera to aperture priority mode and extend your lens to it’s maximum range. Adjust the aperture on your camera to the widest aperture for your lens. On most kit lenses this will be f5.6. Set your ISO to 100. In aperture priority mode the camera will adjust the shutter speed for you. Take a photo of the predetermined object. Increase your ISO to 200 and take another photo of the same object. Continue to do this throughout the ISO settings on your camera. This will allow you to see the increased noise as you increase ISO, and where on your camera it becomes too noisy.
Similarly, you are going to want to do the same with aperture. To do this, keep your ISO at the same setting and only adjust your aperture. Again, the camera will adjust the shutter speed accordingly for proper exposure. Take repeated shots of the same stationary object as you narrow your aperture, f6.3, f7.1, f8, etc. You will notice your images become sharper. This will let you know at what aperture your lens is sharpest.
As is the case with anything, practice is key. The more you shoot, the better you will become. 1/1250th second ISO 500 f8 at 400mm.
If you are just starting out I recommend shooting in aperture priority mode. Set your ISO to auto, but a maximum of whatever value your camera still performs best at. In most cases this will be 800. Set your aperture to the sharpest value you determined in the previous test. Note: be sure to keep a wide enough aperture to allow adequate shutter speeds, which are required to capture sharp images of moving birds. Likely f8 is going to be best. By doing this, you are shooting at the best possible aperture and ISO for camera and lens combination, while the camera adjusts the shutter speed. Light conditions are going to play a huge factor so I recommend doing this under good light conditions. By narrowing your aperture and limiting your ISO, I think you will see an improvement in your image quality.
As conditions change throughout the day so too must your camera settings. 1/640th second f8 ISO 800 at 400mm.
I have since moved to full manual mode, which gives full control over shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. With my particular set up, my lens is sharpest at f8 and images start to get increasingly noisy above 800 ISO. For this reason, I try to shoot at these settings and adjust my shutter speed accordingly to achieve proper exposure. Ideally, I like a shutter speed of 1/1000 or slightly higher, especially to freeze a moving bird. For birds in flight, I will increase this even higher. Unfortunately, light conditions do not always allow for this so shutter speed, aperture, or ISO must be adjusted accordingly.
Weather conditions do not always allow fast shutter speeds, low ISO, and optimum apertures; camera settings must be adjusted accordingly. 1/200th second f5.6 ISO 800 at 400mm.
Sharp images are still achievable at lower shutter speeds with the help of image stabilization if the bird holds still. Practice holding your camera steady; keeping your arms close to your body will help eliminate shake. Use your knee or some other object to help stabilize your camera. Breathing can also help reduce camera shake. Once you have composed your shot and focused on a bird, take a breath in. Exhale slowly and gently press the shutter once you have almost expelled your breath. I have found this technique incredibly helpful. Quite often shake is caused by excitement of a new species or anticipation of a shot, and practicing this breathing helps calm and relax you prior to the shot.
Black-capped Chickadee. 1/200th second ISO 800 f5.6 at 400mm.
Shoot often and take lots of pictures. That is the joy of digital. Hundreds of images can be easily discarded without spending a fortune on film or developing charges. Do not get discouraged, use each outing as a learning experience, and try to improve one aspect of your photography each time you are out. Most importantly, only compare your photos against your photos. There will always be photographers who produce better images than you and those who do not. This for me has been the best way to see and measure results.
If you have any further questions regarding bird photography, I am always available and willing to offer assistance. If a private, one on one or small group lesson in the field would be beneficial to you please contact me and we can arrange a time and place.
This Red-bellied Woodpecker displays the reddish belly for which they are named; the grey crown indicated this bird is a female.
When it comes to birds and birding, “What is your favourite bird” is the question I am asked most frequently. It is a difficult question to answer because I can honestly say I love all birds. Some I prefer more than others but I do love them all, even Starlings and Grackles.
If I had name a bird as my favourite, it would be the Red-bellied Woodpecker. I find their black and white feather pattern combined with their red crowns and napes simply striking. Their ascending, rolling call is music to my ears. The fact that these birds are easily found clinging to tree trunks in plain view, is another point in favour for this bird. Their medium size, colour, and call make locating and photographing these birds much easier than smaller birds that prefer a more dense habitat. Red-bellied Woodpeckers are often called Red Headed Woodpeckers by mistake, a separate species of woodpecker. The reddish belly for which they are named is most often held close to tree trunks and therefore is seldom seen.
Red-bellied Woodpeckers are often found clinging to tree trunks and stumps searching for food.
Red-bellied Woodpeckers are year round residents in our area and can be found in most forests and wooded areas. These birds also regularly frequent city parks and backyards. If you wish to attract these and other woodpeckers to your property, the addition of a peanut and suet feeder will certainly help.
Red-bellied and other woodpeckers use their powerful beaks to excavate food from trees. The solid red crown indicates that this bird is a male.
Red-bellied Woodpeckers feed on insects, nuts, seeds and berries and are most often seen clinging to tree trunks searching for food. Woodpeckers listen for insects and other arthropods living behind the tree’s bark. Once food is located, they use their powerful beaks to move the bark or excavate a hole in the trunk. Next their long, sticky tongue is used to remove their meal. Red-bellied and other woodpeckers can also be seen storing food such as seeds and nuts behind tree bark and in cavities to be consumed later.
Woodpeckers use their long sticky tongues to extract insects and other arthropods from tree cavities.Success! Today’s meal appears to be some type of larva or grub.
If finding one of these woodpeckers is something you wish to do, start by learning their call. I say this about a lot of birds, but in the case of the Red-bellied Woodpecker their call is easily recognized and they are not shy about using it to give away their location. If one of these birds is in the area you will hear it. Next time you come across a Red-bellied Woodpecker, admire their beautiful colours, markings and call. Once you do, it may become one of your favourite birds as well.
The brilliant red wing feathers of the Cedar Waxwing often go overlooked unless viewed from close range.
If you are looking for excellent views of the beautiful Cedar Waxwing, late fall, and early winter is the perfect time. These colourful birds are a year-round resident of our area, but with leafless trees and predictable movements at this time of year, some of the best views are now achievable.
Cedar Waxwings can be found in a wide variety of habitats including deciduous, coniferous, and mixed forests, city parks, backyards, and alongside rivers and ponds. Their diet mainly consists of fruits and berries, but during summer months insects are also consumed. Waxwings are a common backyard visitor if you happen to have Serviceberry, Mountain Ash, Dogwoods, or other fruit-producing trees and shrubs in your yard. Unless you have a large property with several fruit trees, visits will likely be short-lived as these birds quickly devour all the fruit from a tree and then move on.
The diet of a Cedar Waxwing consists solely of berries during winter months.
During late fall and winter, large flocks of Cedar Waxwings can be found feeding on remaining berries on various trees and shrubs. With a limited diet and food sources this time of year, locating these birds is quite easy. Find berries and you will find Cedar Waxwings. Once a flock is located, they can be observed feeding in the same location for days until all of the fruit is consumed. In areas where fruit trees are abundant, Cedar Waxwings will be found all winter, only moving short distances to search for food.
This past week I discovered a large flock of Cedar Waxwings feeding on berries in Springbank Park. The flock was observed feeding daily in the same group of trees. The birds were more interested in feeding than they were concerned with my presence, and many views were had from merely an arm’s length away. In fact, I had to step back in order to photograph the birds with a 400mm lens. The week passed and the trees are now completely void of berries. Fortunately, the area is full of fruit trees and I located the flock only a short distance away. Knowing these predictable feeding areas and movements will provide excellent views, and photo opportunities all winter as the birds move along the river.
Cedar Waxwing reaching for a berry.
The silent movements of Cedar Waxwings often go unnoticed as they flit around consuming berries. It is not uncommon to be right next to these birds without detecting their presence. Learning their soft whistling call is a great help in locating Cedar Waxwings. Flocks of Waxwings will regularly perch high in trees letting out their soft calls while others feed closer to the ground. It is these faint whistles that will alert you of Cedar Waxwings in the area.
Pay close attention to trees and shrubs that still contain fruit next time you are out birding. When an area is discovered, listen for the soft whistles of the Cedar Waxwing. Once located, these birds will provide colourful views for you all winter long.
Barn Swallows have seen significant population decreases in recent years across Canada. They are now listed as threatened on the Species at Risk list. This particular bird was successfully rehabilitated and released with Swift Care Ontario.
With six subspecies found worldwide, the Barn Swallow is the most widespread species of Swallow in the world. They are found on six continents; breeding in the Northern Hemisphere and wintering across the Southern Hemisphere. These birds are aerial insectivores, feeding on insects captured in flight.
Hirundo rustica, the Barn Swallow subspecies that breeds in our area, can be observed most years from late April until early September. They prefer open habitat to forage and can be found across farmland, city parks, sports fields, lakes, rivers and ponds. Barn Swallows are so named because their nests are often constructed on narrow ledges inside covered structures such as barns or sheds. Other popular nest sites include: under eaves trough, beneath bridges, and inside culverts. Nests are constructed of mud and attached both to horizontal and vertical surfaces. When positioned on vertical surfaces nests are semicircular in shape, while those on horizontal surfaces are completely round. Feathers and grasses are used to line the nest.
Three young Barn Swallows sit in their semicircular nest constructed on a beam beneath a bridge.
Despite their wide range, Barn Swallows close to home are in trouble. These birds are now listed as a threatened species on the Species at Risk list across Canada. In Ontario, between 1966 and 2009, Barn Swallow populations decreased by 65% with the largest decreases happening most recently. Several factors are to blame including: habitat loss, pollution and climate change. The increased use of pesticides in the agriculture industry has significantly reduced the number of insects in many areas, resulting in a lack of food. Chemical pollution results in several health problems including neurological disorders, birth defects and death. Modernization of structures has also contributed to habitat loss. Wooden barns, sheds and boathouses that Barn Swallows previously could find access to and nest in, are being replaced with metal structures that are completely sealed. Barn Swallows are often seen making failed attempts to gain access to these buildings. Even if access is achieved, these modern structures, with their thin metal roofs, are often too hot in their upper sections where nesting would occur and therefore not desirable nesting locations.
Platform nest boxes specifically designed for Barn Swallows provide nesting habitat where older structures have been removed or replaced.
If you have Barn Swallows on your property, consider leaving these old wooden structures for them to nest in. If you need to replace or have already replaced them, than consider adding a nesting platform to the outside of your new structure. Barn Swallows will quickly accept a nest platform placed under a roof overhang on the side or end of a building. Successful broods have been raised in the presence of humans, where these platforms have been installed. Barn Swallows are quite tolerant of human activity, and watching adults raise their brood is both educational and entertaining. I have constructed such platforms to be installed on the property of landowners where Barn Swallows have previously nested and these modern metal buildings now exist. These nesting platforms are specifically designed for Barn Swallows and differ from other platforms in that the ledge for nesting is only 2.5″ wide. This narrow ledge allows enough room for the Barn Swallow to attach its mud nest, but will prevent other birds that use a platform, such as the American Robin and Mourning Dove, from occupying them.
This Barn Swallow was photographed perched on the same 1 3/4″ wide rafter as its nest sits on. A narrow ledge is all that is required for these birds to nest.
The biggest problem I have seen with artificial nest boxes and platforms is that they are not put up early enough. The intentions of installing them in spring are great, but too often people wait for nice weather and are too late. The nesting platforms must be installed before the Barn Swallows return, in late April. Birds begin searching for an adequate nest site immediately after returning in the spring and it is never too early to put up a nesting platform. Installing one now will ensure it is ready when Barn Swallows return.
If you are interested in one of these nesting platforms for your property, I am currently selling them for $20 each. Platforms measure 13″H x 7.25″W x 3.25″D and are made from Eastern White Pine. Platforms are left rough and unpainted, making it easier for the mud that Barn Swallows use to make their nests adhere. They are easily mounted to any vertical surface with two screws. For more information on these platforms or to purchase please contact me.
Negative human intervention has led to the decline of Barn Swallows and several other species. Now is the time for positive human intervention to help save a Species at Risk. Consider providing adequate nesting habitat for Barn Swallows if they happen to frequent your property. Simple practices like these are something everyone can do to make a difference.
