Bird Photography Archives • PAUL ROEDDING PHOTOGRAPHY

48662341797 ea124018e9 o 3 - 4 Camera Settings All Bird Photographers Should Be Using — **Carefully choosing my settings for both the amount of light and my subject helped me capture this image of a Green Heron.**

Whether you are a professional photographer or simply a hobbyist, the goal of everyone who photographs birds is the same, sharper images. What many beginners often fail to realize is that sharp images have more to do with knowing how to properly use a camera and getting the most out of it than the price tag on it. Camera settings are what make or break a photo, and in this post I am going to share with you four settings you may not be using that will help improve your final images.

IMG 0275 Edit - 4 Camera Settings All Bird Photographers Should Be Using — **Capturing this image of a Common Tern moments after passing a small perch to a youngster required the proper camera settings.**

1. Use Aperture Priority Mode Or Manual Mode To Set Your Exposure

Every great image starts with proper exposure. If your exposure is off these photos are destined for the recycle bin. Getting the correct exposure in-camera is key as this results in the best image possible. If you have to adjust your exposure in Lightroom or other photo editing program after the fact your image quality is going to suffer. The more you adjust the more it suffers. For anyone still shooting in automatic mode, the sooner you move out of this mode the sooner your images will improve. Remember when shooting in automatic mode your camera is calculating your exposure for you based on the amount of available light. Light is only part of the equation when it comes to an image. What about your subject? Isn’t that after all the purpose of taking the photo to capture the subject? Since your camera cannot identify your subject or whether or not it is moving leaving elements of the exposure such as shutter speed up to the camera is a bad idea. In order to get sharp images, you have to set the parameters of your exposure based not only on the amount of available light but also your subject and the only way to do this is by taking control of your settings.

IMG 2454 Edit Edit - 4 Camera Settings All Bird Photographers Should Be Using — I photographed this Black-crowned Night Heron using aperture priority mode while paying close attention to my histogram. Learning how to read your camera’s histogram will ensure proper exposure and help capture the most detail especially in a bird’s white feathers.

If you are new to photography and a bit overwhelmed by exposure, I recommend starting with aperture priority mode. In this mode, you select the aperture and ISO and the camera will automatically select the correct corresponding shutter speed. By doing this you can choose a wide aperture and high ISO which results in a fast shutter speed thus freezing the action of a fast-moving bird. Whenever the light permits, I like my shutter speed to be at least 1/1000 to ensure sharp images. Many will ask why not use shutter priority set at 1/1000? There are several reasons I do not use shutter priority. First, in aperture priority mode I have control of depth of field which allows me to better isolate my subject from the background. Second, in low light, I would have to shoot at a very high ISO to achieve 1/1000 shutter speed and my image would be too noisy. For anyone shooting with a full-frame camera, this option may work for you but on my APS-C sensor, I would not be impressed with my final images. This is one of the few instances where I would delete a photo due to noise. In low light situations with aperture priority mode, the camera will choose a slower shutter speed but with good technique, I can still freeze the action. If the light is really poor and the bird is moving I may end up with a blurry image but this is a limitation of my gear and the reality of photography some times. The only way to overcome this would be to invest in a full-frame camera capable of shooting at a much higher ISO.

IMG 5925 Edit - 4 Camera Settings All Bird Photographers Should Be Using — **Far too often images are underexposed when shooting in fully automatic mode. The only way to ensure proper exposure is by taking control of your settings.**

The other option is to shoot in manual mode. In this mode, the photographer chooses all aspects of the exposure shutter speed, ISO, and aperture. Manual mode is a bit trickier as there is one more element to factor in but once comfortable you have full control and can really fine-tune your exposure with even the slightest change in light. Regardless of which of these two modes you choose, be sure to check your exposure on your histogram and adjust your settings accordingly to get the proper exposure.

IMG 6689 Edit Edit - 4 Camera Settings All Bird Photographers Should Be Using — **Despite not being an overly fast-moving subject, I still chose an ISO of 800 to ensure my shutter speed was fast enough to freeze these Sandhill Cranes as they moved across a cornfield.**

2. Carefully Select Your ISO

Regardless of whether you choose aperture priority or manual mode selecting the proper ISO is imperative. Too high and ISO and you end up with noisy images, too low an ISO and you won’t achieve a fast enough shutter speed to freeze the action. One misconception many photographers have is that their camera is not capable of sharp, noise-free images at 800 ISO or higher. In my experience, any DSLR on the market today is quite capable of noise-free images at 800 ISO and even slightly higher if you get the exposure right. The problem is when you get the exposure wrong in-camera and start making adjustments in Lightroom, especially when you try to brighten an underexposed image. This accentuates the noise rendering the photo unusable. If the proper exposure is achieved in-camera very little noise is seen when opened in Lightroom and can easily be removed with the noise reduction slider.

IMG 8342 - 4 Camera Settings All Bird Photographers Should Be Using — **A higher ISO results in a faster shutter speed which is required to freeze the action of a fast-moving bird. Digital noise can easily be removed in Lightroom or similar programs.**

Whenever I am out in the field, I always start at ISO 800 as this typically results in a shutter speed of 1/1000 with a wide-open aperture even on cloudy days. If it is really cloudy, early morning, or other low light conditions I will bump my ISO up to 1250 or even 1600 and have no issues with noise provided I get the exposure correct. When I botch my exposure these images quickly get deleted upon returning home. I don’t even bother trying to adjust the exposure in Lightroom as I know these images will appear too noisy. When this occurs, and I fully admit it does, I think of the old saying you can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. This is not the fault of the camera, the blame is solely on me for choosing the wrong settings or not being able to adjust them fast enough for the changing conditions. On sunny days I set my ISO lower but usually cannot go below 400 and still achieve a shutter speed of 1/1000. The bottom line is don’t be afraid to up your ISO. Sharp images with a bit of noise are better than a blurry image with no noise. When exposed properly you will miss more shots due to motion blur, a result of a shutter speed that was too slow, than you will because an image is too noisy.

48662233426 19f129afb6 o - 4 Camera Settings All Bird Photographers Should Be Using — **Photographing an Osprey while it balances on a narrow perch seconds after it lands it much easier shooting multiple frames simultaneously.**

3. Choose High-Speed Continuous Shooting

Cameras these days are capable of some pretty impressive burst rates now over 10 frames per second on newer models. However, if your camera is set to one-shot or single shooting you are not taking advantage of this feature. The only way to achieve a flight sequence of a bird of prey or waterfowl is to obtain focus and hold down the shutter, thus utilizing your maximum frames per second. This setting also comes in handy with slower-moving subjects like a shorebird running down the beach or a flitting songbird.

07 - 4 Camera Settings All Bird Photographers Should Be Using — Those of you familiar with the Sora will know they are not an easy bird to see or photograph as they often stay well-hidden. Tracking this bird until it stepped out into the clear allowed me to achieve this image.

4. Use AI Servo (Canon Shooters) or AF-C (Nikon Shooters) Auto Focus

Obtaining focus on a moving bird is certainly challenging but fortunately, this setting will help. When using AI Servo, or AF-C for you Nikon shooters, your camera will continuously focus on a moving subject as long as your shutter button is held halfway down. This allows you to track a bird in flight or a small songbird as its hops from branch to branch while maintaining focus. When you see the shot you want, hold the shutter button down and take advantage of the high-speed continuous shooting I mentioned earlier.

Conclusion

Choosing the right camera settings can seem overwhelming and a bit confusing especially if you are new to photography. Anyone can achieve sharper images regardless of how much your equipment cost; however, this requires you to step outside your comfort zone and adjust a few of your camera settings. If you are not certain how to make these adjustments consult your camera’s manual. With the press of a few buttons, these changes can be easily made.

Bird photography is supposed to be fun, not frustrating. Making sure you are using the best possible settings is the first step in capturing stunning images. If you haven’t already, give these camera settings a try and I’m sure you will see an improvement in your final images.

Good birding,
Paul

*Curious about what camera, lenses, and other equipment I use for nature photography? Be sure to check out my gear page for more details.*

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IMG 9081 1 - Is Upgrading Your Telephoto Kit Lens Really Necessary For Bird Photography? — This Black-capped Chickadee was photographed using a Canon EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens, my go to lens for bird photography. Is a lens of this cost necessary to achieve acceptable results?

I recently published a blog post titled Photographing Birds: Tips and Tricks, where I shared information about getting the most out of your camera and lens by finding its “sweet spot” and shooting within its limitations. The images I used in that post were all shot with my Canon EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens, a lens that retails in Canada for $1499.00. Like almost everyone else, I started out with a much less expensive kit lens. Realizing that many people are shooting with kit lenses I wanted to demonstrate that acceptable images are achievable with equipment that costs much less. For this post, I decided to dig out my old kit lens, a Canon EFS55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II. I have not shot with this lens since December of 2012, but wanted to illustrate the kind of results that can be achieved with a lens that retails for $229.00, and is included with many Canon DSLRs at the time of purchase.

IMG 9214 1 - Is Upgrading Your Telephoto Kit Lens Really Necessary For Bird Photography? — Taking the time to understand your camera’s functions and perfecting your skill is more advantageous than spending thousands of dollars on a new lens. This Black-capped Chickadee was photographed using a Canon EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II Kit lens.

Although equipment plays an important role in photography, technique and knowing how to use that equipment are even more important. Image quality has a lot more to do with the person behind the camera and lens than many people may realize. The main things you can do to improve your image quality are: take the time to learn and fully understand your camera functions, be able to quickly adjust your settings to changing conditions, and utilize techniques to steady your lens. Even if your budget allows for a $10,000 lens (for example, a 500mm f4), don’t expect to achieve instant results. The fact of the matter is, if you don’t hold the lens steady or properly expose your images, expensive equipment isn’t going to do you much good.

IMG 8979 1 - Is Upgrading Your Telephoto Kit Lens Really Necessary For Bird Photography? — The added reach and increased auto focus speed are what I deem the two biggest advantages in a lens upgrade. This Black-capped Chickadee was photographed using the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM lens. Retail price $1499.00

IMG 9247 1 - Is Upgrading Your Telephoto Kit Lens Really Necessary For Bird Photography? — Getting close to your subject will make up for lost reach. This Photo was taken using the Canon EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II lens. Retail price $299.00

So if I can achieve results I am happy with using my kit lens, what do I get from a lens that costs five times as much? First of all, added reach. The extra 150mm comes in very handy because we all know how hard it is to get close to birds and wildlife without scaring them off. The build quality, including optics are better. Yes, better optics will give better results, but again, only if used properly. Most kit lenses are constructed mainly of plastic, where the Canon L series are mostly metal. For me this is not a huge issue as I am pretty careful with my equipment. For someone who travels a lot, the added durability of metal will help protect against light bumps. Drop either lens and I’m sure the fact that the kit lens is plastic will be the least of my worries. The Canon 100-400 is also partially weather sealed, providing increased protection against dust and moisture. This added build quality translates to added weight. My Canon 100-400mm weighs just over three pounds. A lens hood and case were also included with the Canon 100-400mm. The thing I like most about my Canon 100-400mm is the auto focus. Canon’s USM (ultrasonic motor) is incredibly fast and accurate. This to me, is worth every penny. Some bird species move incredibly fast and almost constantly, making focusing on them extremely difficult. Photographing birds in flight is also much easier with a lens that features a USM.

IMG 9120 1 - Is Upgrading Your Telephoto Kit Lens Really Necessary For Bird Photography? — Black-capped Chickadee. Canon EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II.

Achieving results with a kit lens is possible if you keep a few things in mind. As is the case with any lens in wildlife photography, get as close as possible. For some bird species, especially waterfowl, this can be difficult. Many birds in your backyard or at the local park are accustomed to human activity and can be approached closely. For other species this requires increased patience or hiding in a certain spot waiting for the bird to come into view. I find auto focus speed to be the biggest set back of a kit lens. In an area where there are leaves, branches and other obstructions, locking onto the target can sometimes take the lens longer then the subject is willing to wait. If this is the case, switch over to manual focus. By rotating the focus ring manually you will be able to track and lock onto flitting birds much faster. Be sure to hold your camera and lens as steady as possible. Even with image stabilization and fast shutter speeds, camera shake will quickly ruin an otherwise acceptable shot. If camera shake is a problem, than the use of a monopod will be beneficial.

I have been photographing birds and wildlife for three years now, and have seen improvements to my images in that time. I have read and watched countless tutorials, and spent hours practicing what I have learned. There has been much trial and error along the way, and there is always room for improvement. My photographs are by no means perfect, but I am happy with the results that I achieve. My first camera and lens combination was a Canon T3i with the EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II that suited me quite well. After understanding the functions of the camera and honing my skills and technique, I realized an equipment upgrade could improve my photography. My current set up, the Canon 7D and EF100-400mm f/4.6-5.6L IS USM gives me more reach, faster auto focus and more frames per second, three things that help with bird photography. When I sit back and scrutinize my images, I look to see what I could have done to improve the image quality. Perhaps I should have selected a faster shutter speed or different aperture. Maybe instead of focusing on the bird’s eye, I focused on the branch beside it. Camera shake is often to blame for my blurry images, even with the use of image stabilization. In all of these cases human error was to blame for the missed shot, not my equipment.

IMG 9274 1 - Is Upgrading Your Telephoto Kit Lens Really Necessary For Bird Photography? — Refining your technique will reward you with better results than investing in an expensive lens. Canon EFS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II

If you are a serious hobbyist like me, than upgrading your kit lens can help you achieve better results. Expensive lenses help reduce the limitations put on photographers by their equipment, but is not however a substitute for skill and technique. If you are currently shooting with a kit lens, practice achieving the best possible results with your set up. Work on being able to adjust ISO, shutter speed, and aperture quickly while shooting. Become familiar with your camera’s various metering modes, and the use of exposure compensation. These are elements of photography that are incredibly helpful in many shooting situations. When you consistently get results you are happy with, yet find range and focus speed are holding your photography back, then consider upgrading your lens. If you are not getting the results you hoped for from your camera and lens set-up, consider signing up for a one on one workshop.

*Click on the images in this post to view larger*

Good birding,
Paul